Restaurants Digest Nutrition Laws, Tweak Recipes to Put Best Food Forward

New York is doing it. Seattle and San Francisco are next, and over 20 municipalities and states may soon mandate point-of-sale nutrition data at chain restaurants. The new rules have restaurants lining up to order recipe tune-ups from nutrition consulting firms such as Palate Works in California. Nutrition information, required on most packaged foods, is increasingly considered just as vital for sizing up menu choices… if it's accurate.

It might seem easy to guess if a bran muffin has less saturated fat and calories than a bagel with cream cheese, or an order of coleslaw packs more calories than a baked sweet potato. "It isn't. Even a nutritionist would need to see the recipes," says Carol Harvey, president of Palate Works. "Is the muffin made with oil (less saturated fat), or butter (more), and how much? How big is the muffin? How big is the bagel and that layer of cream cheese (the typical glob adds 18 g fat)? There is no way of guessing from a typical menu description," says Harvey, explaining that nutrition content depends on the unique recipe, how closely it was followed, and portion size.

Since 1997, restaurants have been required to provide limited nutrition information to substantiate any claims ("low fat," "healthy," etc.) on menus or in signage or advertising. The new laws generally apply to all long-term menu items at restaurants that are part of a chain of at least 10-20 locations. Some laws require posting just calories on menu boards; some also require fat, saturated fat, trans fat, carbohydrates and sodium, as well as more complete nutrition information on posters.

Large chains, many of which have offered nutrition information through pamphlets, posters and Web sites for years, can better afford laboratory (chemical) analysis at $700 per menu item. Smaller chains often retain a consultant to do database analysis of the recipes for 1/10th that. Either method can take weeks and provides ample opportunity for error, whether in transporting samples, inputting data, estimating fat in fried foods (impossible to nail down with recipe analysis), or having cooks who "modify" the recipe by even a dash of salt (that's an extra 155 mg sodium) or splash of oil (5 g fat, 45 calories). Then there is the natural variability in nutrition among individual apples, potatoes, cuts of meat, etc.

Many restaurants are turning the inevitable demand for more information, albeit less than precise, into an opportunity to better compete. They are "smart-sizing" portions, increasing the ratio of vegetables to meat/cheese in sandwiches, pasta and other dishes (lowers calories while adding vitamins, flavor and color), and replacing that cottage cheese "diet plate" (high in sodium and low in fiber) with something more healthy and appealing.

"Once restaurants see a recipe's nutrition stats, it's easier to discuss revamping beyond calories, which basically reflect portion size, not healthfulness," says Harvey of Palate Works. "We show them how to turn that 600 calorie muffin into a satisfying and healthier one at 300 calories… but not by simply making it half the size."

Palate Works, based near San Francisco, has been providing nutrition analysis, recipe and marketing services to food businesses for over 15 years. It also hosts an online food startup/tune-up kit with links and tips for developing, launching and marketing food products, particularly healthier ones. More information at www.palateworks.com

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