First Peek at 2006 Wines at Long Island's Palmer Vineyards Pleases New Winemaker

Aquebogue, NY — It has been little more than three months since the last of the grapes were plucked from the vines, crushed and fermented into wine at the award-winning Palmer Vineyards in Aquebogue and winemaker Miguel Martin, who joined the winery just prior to the harvest, is pleased with his first effort.

Last year was a challenging year for ripening grapes as rains drenched East End vineyards throughout the summer and into harvest season. But for Martin, who checked weather reports three times a day during harvest time delayed picking —he brought in the last of the winery’s cabernet sauvignon on Nov. 9, patience has paid off. “I believe you have to take some chances,” he explained.

An early peek at Palmer’s 2006 vintage suggests that winery will have some powerful wines to show off. Tank samples of Palmer’s whites are fragrant, fruity and crisp with good mouth feel. The reds are dark, suggestive of black fruit and softly tannic. The results, he said, are pleasing. “At this stage they are all good wines. I didn’t know what to expect from the vineyards.”

But the early tastes are only hints of what is to come. “This tells you what the vintage was like, but not what the wines will be,” said Martin, adding, who said more finishing, aging and blending are on his agenda.

Martin has fermented pinot blanc, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay in both tanks and oak barrels.

“I like to have as many tools as possible for blending,” the winemaker said. The wines ultimately may be bottled apart or blended. Martin will make that determination in the weeks and months ahead as he experiments. “The balance is the key to me,” he added.

Tank fermented pinot blanc offers up notes of pears and apples with good acidity. The barrel fermented pinot blanc is richer in color and more complex in flavor. “The barrel fermented needs the acid to bring the fruit to the mouth,” he noted.

The 2006 riesling suggests dried flowers, peaches and minerals with a lively acidity. Gewurztraminer is rich and dense, also with bright acidity, but it will remain on its lees to gain more complexity, Martin said.

Tank-fermented sauvignon blanc is grassy, crisp and mineral laden. “It’s a well-balanced wine,” he said. Meanwhile, sauvignon blanc aged in three-year-old oak barrels is complex and spicy with grass and grapefruit notes. “This is the best white wine we have at the winery now.”

Chardonnay fermented in stainless-steel is yeasty with a long finish, while the barrel fermented version, which has undergone partial malolactic fermentation, suggests crème brulee.

“All the aromatic whites will improve so much after fining and filtering and two to three weeks in the bottles,” Martin noted.

As for the reds, the 2006 cabernet sauvignon is deep colored with notes of black fruit and soft tannins. Similarly, the merlot is dark hued, plumy and soft. “It has elegance,” Martin said of the merlot. Cabernet franc, meanwhile, is also imbued with deep colors and hints of cherries and cocoa.

Established in 1986, Palmer Vineyards, the most-awarded winery on Long Island, has been described by New York Times wine writer Howard Goldberg as “Long Island’s most important winery.” The Palmer Vineyards tasting room on Route 48 in Aquebogue is modeled on an old British pub and its tasting deck, overlooking the vineyards, is spacious. For more information about Palmer Vineyards go to palmervineyards.com or call (631) 722-9463 ext. 10.